After our first stop in Grand Turk and playing Waterloo our second destination on the trip was San Juan, Puerto Rico. In researching golf courses in Puerto Rico, I was really impressed by the quality of golf available in the area. Having just been there just a few months prior and playing at Trump International I was looking for something a little more exotic. In researching possible courses to play, the ocean views offered by Royal Isabela sold me on the course. If you don’t believe me after seeing my photos, check out this video of Royal Isabela.
Once I had my itinerary set for the Caribbean trip I knew the crown jewel was going to be Royal Isabela. I’m a sucker for water and in particular ocean views. Personally, I don’ think there is any better layout for a course than alongside the ocean. Royal Isabela didn’t disappoint, in fact it’s now in my top 10 courses ever played coming in at #6 on the list. Going into Royal Isabela, I was hoping it would be the Kingsbarns of the Caribbean but it was more along the lines of Torrey Pines in terms of ocean views.
The trip into Royal Isabela was a long one, from the port of San Juan we had to first pick up a rental car and drive west down the coast for an hour and a half. The drive was relatively easy using the toll express way. Coming down the narrow roads and tight turns I was often asking myself “Am I going to right way?” Google Maps didn’t lie, and around one of the last turns was the gated entrance to Royal Isabella. I informed the guard I was there to play golf; he granted us access to the property and we made the slow drive towards the clubhouse. Our tee time was 2 o’clock and we arrived at about quarter after one.
Joining me for the round was my wife and daughter. Based on the caddy policy, we ended up with 2 caddies in our group. After checking in and buying a shirt and hat we followed our caddies over to the well-appointed practice area. From the time we got onto the property we were given first class treatment and felt as if we were VIPs. My wife and daughter had never played with a caddy before so they were loving all the comforts of having a caddy. After hitting a few balls and rolling some putts, we moved over to the first tee box only a few feet away from the practice area. Starting at 2 o’clock our caddies were a little worried we might not finish before dark but I assured them with our pace of play we wouldn’t have a problem.
Royal Isabela is extremely private and doesn’t receive much play compared to other golf courses in San Juan; that meant two things, the course was in phenomenal shape and we wouldn’t have much company. In fact, we never saw another group out on the course during our round. Royal Isabela was designed by the Pasarell brothers and David W. Pfaff based from Carmel, California. Pfaff, who passed away in May of 2013 always said his fundamental philosophy concerning golf course design is that a course should take advantage of the natural features of the land available. Truer words couldn’t be spoken in regards to Royal Isabela.
From the first hole I knew I was playing a special round of golf. The round starts off with a challenging but short Par 5 into the wind. As you make your way from the fairway to the first green you get a glance of some of the ocean views in store on the back nine. I started off strong with a bogey on number one, I was in great shape until I chunked for my first chip. Walking back to the cart my caddy was impressed and said a bogey was a good score on this hole. By the time I made it to the 5th tee box I was 5 over par but having a great time. The 5th hole stands out because of the natural features of the hole such as a rock mound in the middle of the fairway between an almond and palm tree. I hit a great drive on this hole followed by a great second shot onto the green and after 2 putts I had my first par. After going three over on the next two holes I was on the 8th tee box of a long par 5 that played 543 yards. I hit the fairway with my drive and was able to avoid the devils pond with my second shot. After chipping onto the green and a two putt I had my second par of the day. The front nine finished with a island green par 3, billed as the easiest hole on the course. It’s a straight ahead shot, you just need to pick the right club.
The green was full of native birds that all took flight as my tee shot hit the green, my caddy yelled out “birdie”. I finished the front with a 3 putt on number 9 and a score of 45, for me it was a great score and I couldn’t have been happier with my play or the course.
After finishing the front nine it was as if my entrée had arrived. All the ocean views that Royal Isabela had to offer were ahead. The fact that you have to wait until the back 9 to be up close and personal with the Ocean is why I compare this course more with Torrey Pines than Kingsbarns. The main difference being, Kingsbarns keeps the ocean insight for almost all 18 holes and Torrey Pines only offers a handful of holes along the Pacific Ocean much like Royal Isabela.
The back 9 was a real challenge, my best score on any hole was a bogey. I ended the back 9 with a 54 for an 18 hole total of 98. I’ll chalk it up to my amazement of the ocean views and splitting my attention between golf and trying to take in all the beauty Royal Isabela has to offer. A few holes stand out among the rest on the back nine.
Number 12 offers a stunning view from the tee box and forces a shot that skirts the coast line over the tree line onto the fairway. I had my worse score on this par 4, I couldn’t get my tee shot to the fairway the first or second time, but the third time was a charm.
Playing number 17 the final par 3 and the last hole facing the ocean I couldn’t help feeling sad that the round was coming to an end. 17 one of the signature holes offers a Kodak moment from the tee box that forces you to clear a hazard, if you cross the hazard and find trouble in the trees there is mandatory relief offered at no penalty, so just make sure you clear the hazard.
On the 18th tee box you’re coming home with the ocean at your back. Coming up the fairway you couldn’t ask for a more picturesque view of the Royal Isabela Clubhouse.
As you make your way down the fairway you’ll pass by the tennis courts and see guests enjoying a meal outside on the patio. After saying farewell to our caddies, we headed back to the pro shop and the valet retrieved our car and loaded us up for the long journey back to San Juan. This is one course I hope to have the chance to play again in the future.