This might not be the most popular article I have ever written, but as Kingsbarns is on the verge of their 20th anniversary, I think it’s time someone finally steps up and says it; “Kingsbarns is the real reason to visit St. Andrews!”. For those of you who haven’t had a chance to play Kingsbarns, I’m sure what you just read is heresy. I don’t blame you, but I’m here to inform you! When you think about St. Andrews it’s OK, if your first thoughts are those of The Old Course. After all, The Old Course is the home of golf, so old we don’t even know who designed it. Don’t get me wrong The Old Course is hallowed ground, but a great golf course, it is not! There you go, I said it! Apart from a few iconic holes, the layout of The Old Course leaves a lot to be desired, but it’s a bucket list item and still something I suggest everyone does once in their lifetime, but once is enough!
A few months ago, my daughter and I traveled over to Scotland, she was playing in the U.S. Kids European Championship, and I decided to extend our visit and turn it into the best Daddy-Daughter golf trip of all time! We started at Castle Stuart, then onto Royal Dornoch. From there, we headed south to St. Andrews, but not to play The Old Course.
In 2014, I took my first golf trip to the United Kingdom and played Royal Birkdale, Royal Liverpool, the PGA Centenary Course (2 weeks after the Ryder Cup), The Old Course, and Kingsbarns. I know what you’re thinking, that’s a pretty iconic list of golf courses; 3 classics all part of The Open rotation, a course that just hosted the Ryder Cup, and Kingsbarns.
Guess what, we all left Scotland of the same opinion, Kingsbarns was the best course we played. Oh, and get this, not just the best course we played that trip, but the best course we’ve ever played! Yeah, it’s that good!
Now that you have a little background, you can understand my daughter has had to hear quite a bit about Kingsbarns. As a golf writer, I get asked all the time, “What’s the best golf course you’ve played?”. Without hesitation, Kingsbarns! So, you can imagine after five years, my daughter has heard all about Kingsbarns and the expectations are high.
So, what makes Kingsbarns so GREAT?
The Location
There are so many things to love about Kingsbarns, but let’s start with the LOCATION! Kingsbarns is in the perfect location for a great golf experience. St. Andrews, Scotland the home of golf! Where else could you find a better spot to build a golf course? The history, the weather, the views of the North Sea, and a course layout that traverses the dunes of St. Andrews with the North Sea so close you can always hear it, smell it, or see it!
A Crazy History
When you arrive at Kingsbarns, you’ll find it hard to believe the course opened in 2000. Well, you would be right to question it! There is a rich history of Scottish links on the property that dates back to 1793 with a sorted history. In 1844, a nasty land dispute ended with a local farmer plowing up the course. Golf resumed at Kingsbarns in 1922, but in 1948 World War II halted golf operations as much of the land was taken over by the military.
World-Class Design
In the 1990s, Mark Parsinen and Art Dunkley joined forces with course architect, Kyle Phillips to breathe new life into links golf at Kingsbarns! Three Americans joining forces to build a links golf course in Scotland, I know, it sounds like the plot of a crazy, everything can go wrong Hollywood movie! But I’m here to tell you these 3 California dudes came over to Scotland and did something nobody ever thought possible and created the best course in St. Andrews.
Kingsbarns wasn’t the most accessible site to develop but the coastal property provided Phillips with a natural amphitheater with views from the back row just as stunning as from the front. The layout at Kingsbarns works back and forth with two-tiers stretching across the seashore providing lots of natural dunes and elevation changes. The Kingsbarns panorama is vast and unique, to the naked eye its almost as if the golf course stretches across the entire North Sea.
The Clubhouse & Ambiance
Nearly as impressive as the golf links, is the clubhouse. Upon arrival at Kingsbarns, you’ll be met by the staff, which helps unload your clubs at the bag drop, not unlike most clubs across the world. However, once you take in that first breath of the North Sea and feel the wind on your face that’s when you know you’ve arrived. I promise you’ll be mesmerized by the panoramic view that stretches past the 18th green and down to the beach as the golf course is laid out in plain sight. That view only gets better from the men’s locker room. No trip to Kingsbarns is complete without going upstairs to the locker room and stepping out onto the balcony, to me it is the best view in the world! Simple, yet perfect is how I would sum up the clubhouse at Kingsbarns.
All about Golf!
Kingsbarns is 100% destination golf, and the sole focus is on providing you with the best GOLF experience possible. However, Kingsbarns only does golf, that means you are on your own when it comes to finding a place to stay. Lucky for us, that wasn’t a problem, we spent two nights at the fabulous Fairmont St. Andrews.
Fairmont St. Andrews
A trip to St. Andrews is the trip of a lifetime, and there is no better way to spend your time in St. Andrews than at the Fairmont, a five-star resort that encapsulates luxury, elegance and truly breathtaking surroundings. With 520-acres, the Fairmont is a unique venue that will make your visit one to remember with stunning clifftop views of St Andrews and the North Sea.
The Fairmont and Kingsbarns are a match made in heaven! Located less than 10 minutes away, The Fairmont is not only the best hotel in St. Andrews but also the closet to Kingsbarns. In addition to 5-star accommodations, the Fairmont has two 18-hole championship golf courses. The Torrance Course and Kittocks Course, both are great options while in St. Andrews. Most people that miss out on the ballot at The Old Course end up on either the Kittocks or Torrance.
A Perfect Day
After driving 4 hours the night before making our way from the Scottish Highlands, to St. Andrews, we arrived at The Fairmont around 11 pm. The staff quickly checked us into our room, and before we knew it, we were fast asleep. Waking up that morning, we started the day off with a proper breakfast, the breakfast buffet at The Fairmont is world-class and sure to make even the pickiest of eaters happy. After breakfast, we made our way over to the clubhouse at The Fairmont and checked in for a morning round on the Kittocks Course. The golf atmosphere at The Fairmont is super relaxed, walk or ride, the option is yours. The finishing holes of the Kittocks wrap around the North Sea providing a fabulous finish to your round. We finished by noon and headed back to our room to relax and watch a bit of TV before our 3 pm tee time at Kingsbarns.
Still full from breakfast, we headed over to Kingsbarns by 2 pm where Alan Hogg, the Kingsbarns CEO, was there to give us a warm welcome. After a lovely chat with Alan, he let us know our group would be playing behind Art Dunkley’s group. We had the chance to meet Art and his beautiful wife before the round and had a great conversation about the links and the upcoming 20th anniversary.
3 pm, tee time! We’re on the 1st tee, caddies by our side and ready to play the best course I have ever played for a second time. Full of emotion, I was happy to be sharing this moment with my daughter and scared at the same time. Would Kingsbarns live up to the lofty expectations that have only grown in the five years since I have played here?
On the 1st tee, I’m the last to tee off following three great shots. Boom, I top the ball about 80 yards into the dunes on the left. Not the perfect start, but I turn to my caddy and say don’t worry I’m going to par this one. A tremendous second shot puts me about 100 yards away from the pin, a clutch 3rd shot into the green puts me in position to deliver. I drain the putt, and walk away with the only par in the group! My golf game was pretty much downhill from that point, but I had my moments. More importantly, Kingsbarns delivered, we had a perfect afternoon for golf, the weather cooperated, and Kingsbarns was delightful!
My fears that the course wouldn’t be what I remembered quickly dissipated, and the look on my daughter’s face filled me with joy! As we walked off the 18th green, my daughter turns to me and says, “Dad, you’re right; that’s the best course I’ve ever played.”
Rob Spellman, is an avid golfer and publisher of Golf Aficionado Magazine, he is a member of the Golf Writers Association of America and the Golf Travel Writers of America.